This church is home to the 1000 year old, mummified right hand of St. Stephen. Stephen I is commonly thought of as the founder of Hungary and was responsible for expanding Christianity in Hungary.
Outside the Basilica, I did a patently stupid thing, and checked my travel guide. I was hungry and couldn't remember where a good restaurant was. Up until this point, I'd been very good at ducking into a cafe, or even a grocery store to check my book. I figured I'd be safe from pick-pockets with my back to the wall and one eye always on the look-out. I also made sure I was within eyesight of the woman in the ticket office and the one in the souvenir stand. That's when a man approached me.
"Do you need some help?"
"Oh, no. I'm just fine. I just left the church," I start casually putting my book away. I'm very careful to not look like I'm worried or threatened, that everything is fine, this guy really hasn't been lurking around and isn't obviously not interested in the basilica.
He sees I'm starting to pack up and leave, immediately takes a step back "It's fine, you can stay here. That's no problem." Yes, I'm sure the leather jacket, track pants and Adidas shoes are part of the St. Stephen's Customer Service uniform. He's trying to set me at ease, which makes me all the more wary. "Where do you come from?"
Don't say America, "I come from Norway."
"Ah, I lived there before. God dag, god dag. Do you come from Bergen?" At this point I wonder if he's one of the beggars that are a frequent site in Norwegian streets. Nearly all the beggars in Norway are from Eastern Europe and Russia. With the cost of living, one of these people can literally beg for a few months in Norway and make more money than they would in their home country.
"Tusen takk," I reply and decide to switch to Norwegian. "Nei, jeg kommer fra Oslo. Hvor bodde du i Norge? (no, I come from Oslo. Where did you live in Norway?)" I have my doubts that this guy knows more than the two words he's just spoken to me.
"Ah, Oslo. That's a beautiful city," I knew it. "Are you lost?" The million dollar question.
"Oh, no. My friend wouldn't come with me to the church, so we agreed to meet in a hour at a cafe. I just couldn't remember the name of it," lying and not looking nervous have never been my strong suits. Fortunately, when my safety depends on it, I am capable of Academy Award- winning performances.
"Okay then, have a nice day."
He was most likely one of those people I'd read about on the State Department's website who lures unsuspecting travelers to tourist trap restaurants where you'll pay literally hundreds of dollars for a glass of wine. Still, it was enough for me to learn my lesson.
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